GROUP OF TWO RANK BADGES OF THE FIFTH RANK CIVIL OFFICIAL

QING DYNASTY, 19TH CENTURY

each showing a silver pheasant, the first worked with counted stich and brick stitch on fine silk gauze, the appliqued bird shown standing on rocks looking towards the sun, surrounded by large clouds, against a bright blue wan fret background, 28.5x30.5cm; the second also on a silk gauze ground, with appliqued bird surrounded by rows of small ruyi shaped clouds and Buddhist emblems; the border with interlocking ruyi and scrolling foliage, 28.5x29.5cm (2)

28.5 x 29.5cm (2)
The History of the Rank Badge (Mandarin Square)
Probably the most important costume accessory in historical China was the civil and military Rank Badge or Mandarin Square, in use from the early Ming dynasty (1368-1664). Worn to indicate the specified ranks of military and civil officials, the mandarin square was a highly esteemed status symbol conferred by the Emperor.
The nine degrees of rank were not heredity but were achieved through education and rigorous examinations. The ranking system was designated by various colours and design symbols, and was publicly signified by an embroidered square that the Mandarin wore stitched upon his surcoat, worn over his court dragon robe. Worn by both military and civil officials, the Rank Badge motifs were executed in a variety of symbolic figures, bird designs for the civil system and animal motifs for the military, and often they are striking masterpieces of handsome colour, carefully organized design, and skilful needlework.