A RARE IMPERIAL APRICOT-GROUND EMBROIDERED SILK WOMAN'S COURT ROBE, CHAOPAO Yongzheng/QianlongA RARE IMPERIAL APRICOT-GROUND EMBROIDERED SILK WOMAN'S COURT ROBE, CHAOPAOYongzheng/QianlongThe remarkable robe exquisitely embroidered in vibrant couched gold and multi-coloured threads with eight five-clawed dragons pursuing flaming pearls amidst wispy ruyi-form clouds, all on a vibrant apricot-ground and above the lishui stripe interspersed with the terrestrial diagram, the sleeve bands finely decorated with further writhing dragons chasing flaming pearls on a black ground, lined in original pale blue silk damask decorated with a profusion of blossoming lotus issuing from leafy tendrils, with later European re-tailoring.133cm (52 3/8in) long x 115cm (45 2/8in) wide.清雍正/乾隆 金黃緞地繡彩雲金龍紋朝袍Provenance: a British private collection, acquired by a member of the UK Civil Service delegation in Beijing at the turn of the 20th century, and thence by descent, by reputePublished and Illustrated: L.Wrigglesworth, The Imperial Wardrobe, Berkeley, 2000, p.177, pl.157.來源：英國私人收藏，傳為英國公務代表團成員於二十世紀之交得自北京，並由後人保存出版著錄：L.Wrigglesworth著，《The Imperial Wardrobe》，伯克利，2000年，頁177，圖版157Superbly embroidered with lively five-clawed dragons riding the heavens, finely worked in metallic gold threads amidst a profusion of five-coloured trailing clouds, the present robe is a rare example of ceremonial garments worn by one of the highest-ranking female members of the Qing society.According to the 'Illustrated Regulations for the Ritual Paraphernalia of the Imperial Court' Huangchao Liqi Tushi 皇朝禮器圖式, edited in 1759, the apricot-orange colour, referred to as xinghuang, was one of the 'Five Imperial Yellows' that could only be worn by Princesses of the First Rank and Imperial Consorts of the Second and Third Degree; see M.Medley, The Illustrated Regulations for Ceremonial Paraphernalia of the Ch'ing Dynasty, London, 1982, and L.Wrigglesworth, Imperial Wardrobe, Berkeley, 2002, pp.14-30.Chaopao garments tailored for women are extremely rare if compared with ceremonial outfits made for the the male members of the Court. This is probably due to the fact that, at the time, women had fewer ceremonial duties than men and were often excluded from important Court ceremonies. Chaopao garments included a winter version, normally lined with fur, and a summer version lined with thinner materials with all exposed edges finished with brocade borders. These formal garments were worn in conjunction with a full-length sleeveless 'dragon' vest, a wide piling collar, elaborate earrings and necklaces and a long silk kerchief fastened to the top robe; see J.Vollmer, Ruling from the Dragon Throne, Berkeley, 2002, pp.69-77.Compare with two related later apricot-ground embroidered silk lined Court robes, respectively early Qing dynasty and Xiangfeng period (1850-1861), from the Qing Court Collection, illustrated in The Complete Collection of Treasures of the Palace Museum. Costumes and Accessories of the Qing Court, Shanghai, 2005, nos.60 and 64.