A gold and enamel cross pendant and chain, circa 1885-1900


In the Renaissance revival style, the ornate wirework and beadwork Latin cross with a central guilloché enamelled rose, the arms pierced and intricately accented by polychrome enamel circles and lozenges, with openwork boule terminals decorating the cardinal points, four enamelled beadwork foliate buds accenting the interstices of the arms of the cross, the elaborate chain composed of gold and polychrome enamel aglet motifs alternating with armillary spheres, one boule terminal loose, enamel loss, accompanied by an unassociated later chain, lengths: cross 9.1cm, chain 88.1cm, later chain 45.0cm (4)
|Throughout the 19th century there was a revived interest in the Renaissance and it continued to be a heavily relied upon source of inspiration for jewellers up until the very end of the century. Historically, the French kings of the Renaissance were great patrons for the art of enamelling and this technique was revived in the latter half of the 19th century. This cross and chain, with its intricate panels of polychrome enamel, is a beautiful example of how the technique was employed during the revival period. Armillary spheres were utilised by Renaissance astronomers to measure co-ordinates in relation to the celestial equator. It was a popular leitmotif in portraits of the time and symbolises wisdom and knowledge. One such portrait is of Elizabeth I (Queen Elizabeth I, by Marcus Gheeraerts the Younger, circa 1592) where the queen is depicted with an armillary sphere hanging from her ear, surely a nod to her divine power and wisdom.For a near-identical cross and chain with maker's marks for Frédéric Boucheron, dated 1885, see auction catalogue, Fine Jewellery, Bonhams New Bond Street, 2004, lot 56.