A sapphire and diamond ring, by Seaman Schepps, circa 1940


Of asymmetrical design, the sugarloaf cabochon sapphire, weighing 41.64 carats, set diagonally within a surround of irregularly arranged cabochon sapphires of varying size and saturation, and pavé-set brilliant-cut diamond scrolls, signed Seaman Schepps, ring size K½
|Accompanied by a report from The Gem & Pearl Laboratory stating that the sapphire is of Sri Lankan origin, with no evidence of heat treatment. Report number 16891, dated 22 February 2019.This ring exemplifies the bold 'retro' style associated with jewels by Seaman Schepps, who playfully mixed cabochon stones and colourful gems of varying size, hue and quality in his designs. Schepps' was directly influenced by European designers such as Fulco di Verdura, René Boivin and Suzanne Belperron and he would then "supersize" his designs for the American market, complementing the fashion of the time. His jewels were greatly admired by the likes of the Rockefellers, DuPonts, Mellons, and the Duchess of Windsor, leading to Schepps becoming affectionally referred to as the 'American Court Jeweller', with his works featured on several covers of Vogue, Town & Country, and Harper's Bazaar magazines. In turn, Schepps would later inspire archetypal American jeweller David Webb.For jewels by Schepps similar to this ring, see 'Vogue' magazine, 1 December 1935 (cover image).