A GOLD NOVELTY BROOCH, BY GEORGES LENFANT, FOR JEAN ÉTÉ, CIRCA 1965 Designed as an elegant stylised owl, decorated with textured gold with engraved plumage, the eyes with filigree detailing, in 18K gold, signed Jean Été, with maker's mark 'GL' for Georges Lenfant, French assay mark, length 4.7cm Founded in 1852, Jean Été is a French watchmaking firm located in the 8th arrondissement of Paris. Initially they specialized in the manufacture of luxury watches, and then later combined this with the production of luxury jewellery. Jean Été quickly became a household name which captured the interest of the jewellery lovers around Paris. The company collaborates regularly with the prestigious jewellery houses of the Place Vendôme, which attracts wealthy clientele from all over the world. The legacy of craftsmanship and passion for the profession has been passed down to subsequent generations, solidifying the reputation of the house as one of the leading luxury jewellery and watch brands. Georges Lenfant was born into the world of French jewellery design and he quickly became a master of his trade. Growing up, he undertook several apprenticeships before studying jewellery in Paris and abroad. In 1900, Georges set up his own workshop at 47 rue des Petits-Champs, minutes away from his patrons at the Place Vendôme and rue de la Paix. He was well established by 1903 and was listed in a publication of the Revue de la Bijouterie, Joaillerie, Orfèvrerie of that year. His creative designs and flawless execution put him in demand with the larger jewellery houses and, in a bid not to be forgotten behind infamous names such as Cartier, Mellerio dits Meller and Van Cleef & Arpels, Georges established a maker's mark in 1909 and proceeded to stamp each piece before it left his workshop. In 1915, Georges was joined in the firm by his son Jacques who, at the age of just eleven, was eager to learn the art of jewellery. His keen interest would stand by him as, in time, Jacques would take over the business and create some of Georges Lenfant's most memorable designs. Neither Georges nor Jacques shied away from collaboration and the Georges Lenfant company had been working with Sandoz for many years when, in 1927, Gustave-Roger Sandoz sold his business to Georges under the condition that his son, Gérard Sandoz, remained as artistic director. Between them, they created striking examples of Art Moderne jewellery, their work infused with bold lines, bright colours and contrasting shapes. Following the end of WWII, Lenfant took over Verger Frères. This heralded a new collaboration with Vacheron Constantin, who had been working with Verger Frères for some time. Constantin and Lenfant busied themselves with watch design and, together, they created statement pieces for Hermes. The 1960s and 70s saw Jacques at the helm of Georges Lenfant and his passion for goldsmithing led to beautiful textured pieces that celebrated the versatility of the metal. In the current lot, designed for Jean Été, several techniques are utilised to depict the owl's form, each method carefully chosen to suit a different part of the bird. Jacques' captivation by the different shapes and textures that could be wrought with gold led to his signature chain pieces as he was fascinated by how the interlocking links could be arranged into a myriad of patterns. Over three thousand pieces were inspired by the chain motif and are now some of Georges Lenfant's most notable creations. In 2003, Georges Lenfant was bought by Bouder and ceased to operate. However, pieces bearing the Lenfant mark continue to prove popular, their numerous collaborations meaning that there is a design to suit everyone.