A RARE EMERALD AND ENAMEL 'PANTHÈRE' RING, BY CARTIER, CIRCA 1980 Designed as two roaring panthers facing each other, their coat embellished with black enamel spots, with circular-cut emeralds for eyes, mounted in 18K gold, signed Cartier, numbered, maker's mark, French assay mark, with maker's case, ring size L¾ (size 52) The 20th century was a pivotal era for the status of women within society. Persevering through two world wars, women were granted greater responsibilities within the workplace and were able to assume roles previously reserved solely for men. Years of strife finally resulted in the female right to vote and, gradually, the gender equality gap began to lessen. Striding alongside these changes was Cartier, leading the way with jewellery design set to embody and empower the modern woman. In particular, Cartier's Panthère design announced itself as the ultimate accessory for the confident feminist. The exotic allure and charm of the big cat acted as a testament to female beauty whilst its intelligence and strength stood proudly for the reawakening of women in society. Initially, inspiration from the big cats could be seen in interior design where their prints were used prolifically in soft furnishings. However, it was not long before the idea slipped into other areas of fashion and, in 1914, Cartier paid its first tribute to the panther in a marketing image for an upcoming jewellery exhibition. Louis Cartier commissioned George Barbier to create 'Dame à la Panthère', an image depicting a goddess-like lady standing with a recumbent panther at her feet. In the same year, the leopard's spots were spied on a Cartier wristwatch, demurely paving the way for bigger designs to come. In 1913, Louis Cartier had hired Jeanne Toussaint as Director of Bags, Accessories and Objects but, inspired by her creativity and intuitive knowledge of upcoming trends, Cartier later took her into the jewellery department. Fondly, Cartier began to call her 'La Panthère', a creature which she epitomised by her rebellious spirit, sharp mind and infinite charm, helped along by the full-length panther coat which she frequently wore. Cartier's first figural representation of the panther came in a gift from Louis to Jeanne, a cigarette case beautifully adorned with a leopard set between two trees. Having spent twenty years imparting his knowledge on jewellery techniques, settings and gemstones, Cartier relinquished his title as Creative Director of Jewellery and established Toussaint in his place. At a time when there were very few women in positions of leadership, Cartier was firmly moving alongside modernist ideals and putting his faith in 'La Panthère'. Working closely with Cartier's designer Peter Lemarchand, Toussaint set about bringing her emblematic animal to life and she encouraged her designers to spend time in Paris' zoo, sketching the cats from all angles. In 1935, the first three-dimensional depiction of a panther was realised in the form of a ring bearing a central ruby set to either side with a panther head. Just over ten years later, the panther became an icon when the Duke of Windsor commissioned a brooch for his wife, Wallis Simpson. For the first time, the panther was presented in full, its elegant figure regally set atop a 116.74 carat emerald. The following year, the Duchess purchased a second panther brooch and, soon after, Cartier's cats could be seen prowling the bodies of influential women across the world. A continuous patron, Mrs. Simpson bought many pieces from Cartier and her 1952 panther bracelet set a world record when it was sold in 2010 for an incredible $4.4million. Toussaint's reinvention of the panther continued to inspire throughout her career, her reign as Creative Director seeing the first panther head earrings, panther bangles and a myriad of brooches. Eventually persuaded by age, Toussaint retired in 1970, leaving behind nearly four decades worth of innovative design. Her panther collection had become an integral part of Cartier's jewellery division and it is continued today with customers repeatedly delighting in the strength of the panther.