LOT 230 清黃色緙絲龍袍
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196*135.cm
按《大清會典》裡的規定,帝后大臣的吉服袍,不僅底色有一定的區別,而且袍上皆織、繡有符合其身份等級的圖紋,以其底色、圖紋來區分遠近親疏和等級。此件龍袍圓領,大襟右衽,馬蹄袖,裾四開,五彩緙絲織成,前胸後背、兩肩及底襟均繡飾五爪威龍,衣襟下擺為八寶立水江崖等紋飾。在宮廷帝后及眷屬們的服飾用品中,以緙絲類最屬貴重,據《三織造繳回檔》裡記載,緙織一件龍袍用工、用銀頗多,有的可以達到工時一千零八工六分工,用銀三百二十四兩二錢八厘二毫。此龍袍紋飾構圖簡練,金線疏密有序,線條細勁流暢,其繡工精緻,採用了滾針、齊針、插針、釘馬尾線、墊繡等多種技法,正撚、反撚暈色處理和諧自然,繡紋之間水路留的均勻得體,工藝非凡,可見其珍。圓領,大襟右衽,馬蹄袖,裾四開。龍袍面以緙金為地,用深、淺藍色絲線織藍龍數條,間飾五彩絲線織成的朵雲、蝙蝠、牡丹等圖樣,繁複而不顯雜亂。品相稍弱,有少許污漬。
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東京都墨田区両国3-20-6小林ビル2階
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