LOT 187 A RARE IMPERIAL NOBLEWOMAN'S TURQUOISE-GROUND GAUZE SILK 'DR...
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A RARE IMPERIAL NOBLEWOMAN'S TURQUOISE-GROUND GAUZE SILK 'DRAGON' ROBE, JIFU DaoguangA RARE IMPERIAL NOBLEWOMAN'S TURQUOISE-GROUND GAUZE SILK 'DRAGON' ROBE, JIFUDaoguangMeticulously worked on the front and back in satin stitch and couched gold threads with nine writhing, five-clawed dragons clutching or pursuing flaming pearls amidst dense trailing scrolls of five-coloured clouds interspersed with bats and the Eight Auspicious Emblems, all above the terrestrial diagram and lishui stripe at the hem, picked out in vibrant shades of blue, yellow, red and coral, reserved on a sea-green ground, the matching dark-blue-ground collar and cuffs worked with further dragons amidst further bats, clouds and waves. 132cm (52in) long.清道光 綠地納紗繡金龍紋吉服袍Delicately embroidered with nine five-clawed dragons pursuing the flaming pearls of wisdom, the present robe is a rare example of festive garments worn by the highest-ranking female members of the Qing society. Robes tailored in turquoise silk are extremely rare and appear to have been reserved for the use of Imperial consorts during the Qing dynasty. See L.Wrigglesworth, The Imperial Robe, Berkeley, 1990, p.95.Robes decorated with designs drawn from the repertoire of Court symbols, such as the dragons, reinforced the privilege of an educated and sophisticated elite focused on the power of textiles to convey social status to the viewers. The quintessential symbol of Imperial power, five-clawed dragons embodied royalty and dominion and expressed the visual metaphor of the good ruler who behaved wisely for the well being of his subjects. Compare with a related turquoise ground robe for an Imperial consort, 19th century, illustrated by L.Wrigglesworth, Imperial Wardrobe, Berkeley, 1990, p.96, pl.76. See also a related turquoise-ground 'dragon' robe, 19th century, in the Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York, acc.no.30.75.99.
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