LOT 202 VAN CLEEF & ARPELS: DIAMOND AND GEM-SET FLOWERSPRAY BROO...
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VAN CLEEF & ARPELS: DIAMOND AND GEM-SET FLOWERSPRAY BROOCH, 1930SThe engraved and highly textured floral and foliate spray tied with a fluttering ribbon, decorated throughout with brilliant, old brilliant and single-cut diamonds, circular-cut rubies and sapphires, cabochon and sugarloaf emeralds,signed Van Cleef & Arpels, numbered 47796, engraved 'country of origin: France' length 8.4cmFor further information on this lot please visit theProvenance: ProvenanceBelieved to have been purchased from 'Jewels and Watches, formerly from the Dwight D. and Mamie Eisenhower Collection: Property of the John S.D. Eisenhower Trust', Magnificent Jewels, Christie's New York, 6 December 2017, lot 49This jewel closely resembles the brooch worn by Margaret, Duchess of Argyll (1912-1933), in her portrait, exhibited at the Royal Academy in 1934, by Gerald Leslie Brockhurst. Brockhurst specialised in painting rich and famous society women of the 1930s and 40s – other sitters included Merle Oberon, Marlene Dietrich, Mrs Paul Mellon, Lady Doverdale and the Duchess of Windsor - and his polished style perfectly captured the glamour and sophistication of the era. Margaret, wearing a black gown with gold floral embroidery, possibly by Schiaparelli or Mainbocher, wears the brooch pinned ide down at the centre of her dress.During the 1930s, Margaret 'set a beauty standard that stood unchallenged' (The Tatler) with her green eyes and magnoliaplexion. She would go on to be one of the most photographed women of the 20th century, an indomitable social figure of star status, who knew nearly everyone in the worlds of politics, society, theatre and film. She was frequently named in the world's best dressed lists and was a favourite subject of gossip columnists and known for hosting lavish parties. Her event for Paul Getty's 80th birthday was attended by King Umberto of Italy and Tricia Nixon, daughter of the American President.Born Ethel Margaret Whigham in 1912, of Scottish heritage, Margaret was the only child of self-made millionaire and one of the richest men of his day, George Whigham. Her childhood was spent in New York where she became friends with Woolworth heiress and 'poor little rich girl' Barbara Hutton (see lot 78) who later nearly became her sister-in-law. After her extravagant society debut and presentation at court, that she described as 'a whirl through wonderland', she wore a different couture gown, glittering with jewels, for every event she attended.Her rich and eligible suitors included Prince Aly Khan, millionaire aviator Glen Kidston, publishing heir Max Aitken and the Earl of Warwick. In 1933 she married tall and dashing American stockbroker and amateur golfer, Charles Sweeny, whose skill on the dancefloor was likened to Fred Astaire. Her spectacular dress and train were by Norman Hartnell and the wedding, attended by 2000 guests and many more gate crashers and onlookers, blocked traffic in London's Knightsbridge for over thre
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