A WOMAN’S PINK-GROUND KESI ‘CHRYSANTHEMUM’ INFORMAL ROBE, QING DYNASTY

Expert’s note:
The classical tailoring of the current robe with its narrow layered sleeves and wide borders, as well as the decoration, are typical of the fashions worn by Manchu noblewomen associated with the court of the Dowager Empress Cixi.

China, 19th century. Finely worked with roundels formed of yellow and blue chrysanthemum blossoms borne on leafy stems against a distinct lavender-pink ground, the turquoise-ground collar and sleeve ends similarly woven with chrysanthemums, framed by parallel bands with wan diaper and stylized shou characters.


Provenance
: Property of a US East Coast Institution. Christie's New York, 22 September 1995, lot 523. An important private collection of an American connoisseur and collector of Chinese robes, acquired from the above, and thence by descent in the family.

Condition
: Good condition with minor wear, occasional soiling and staining, few loose threads, minor fading, few minor pulls, the interior and edges with few torn seams.

Dimensions: Length 140 cm, Width 136 cm (across sleeves)


Chrysanthemums
, symbolizing happiness and vitality, are a popular autumn flower in China and carry special significance during lunar new year celebrations. Since ancient times, people have drunk wine from their fermented petals. Many ancient scholars and philosophers have written about how these flowers promote long life, health, and happiness. Chrysanthemums are mentioned in Chinese historical records as far back as the 15th century BC.


Auction result comparison:

Type: Related
Auction: Christie’s New York, 25 September 2020, lot 1619
Price: USD 20,000 or approx.
EUR 21,000
converted and adjusted for inflation at the time of writing
Description: A yellow-ground kesi informal robe, Guangxu period
Expert remark: Compare the related kesi technique and tailoring. Note the bamboo and shou decoration as well as the size (119.3 cm).


Auction result comparison:

Type: Related
Auction: Christie’s London, 10 November 2015, lot 183
Price: GBP 11,250 or approx.
EUR 19,000
converted and adjusted for inflation at the time of writing
Description: A lady’s informal robe of blue silk damask, late 19th century
Expert remark: Compare the related tailoring and floral decoration. Note the size (137 cm).




清代粉色地緙絲菊花紋氅衣

中國，十九世紀。圓領、大襟右衽、平闊袖，裾右開至腋下，直身式袍。精美刺綉多樣多色菊花紋，更加襯托粉色地。鑲邊松石綠色地上同樣刺綉菊花紋，十分考究。做工精美，花紋豐富。


來源：
美國東海岸機構的財產；紐約佳士得，1995 年 9 月 22 日，拍品 523；美國鑑賞家和中國長袍收藏家的重要私人收藏。，是從上述拍賣購得。

品相：
狀況良好，有輕微磨損，局部有污漬，輕微鬆線和褪色，內部和邊緣有接縫撕裂。

尺寸：長140 厘米, 寬136 厘米 (兩袖之間)


拍賣結果比較：

形制：相近
拍賣：紐約佳士得，2020年9月25日，lot 1619
價格：USD 20,000（相當於今日
EUR 21,000
）
描述：清光緒黃地緙絲團壽竹紋氅衣
專家評論：比較相近的緙絲和剪裁。請注意竹紋和尺寸(119.3 厘米)。


拍賣結果比較：

形制：相近
拍賣：倫敦佳士得，2015年11月10日，lot 183
價格：GBP 11,250（相當於今日
EUR 19,000
）
描述：十九世紀末藍色絲質氅衣
專家評論：比較相近的剪裁和花卉紋。請注意尺寸(137 厘米)。